Check, Please

On the restaurant

Dear Editors,

I was a bit mystified by Aaron Timms’s claim in his recent essay on restaurants (“Salt, Fat, Acid, Defeat,” Issue 39) that the modern restaurantgoer “will be charged for drinking water.” I am familiar with the European custom of charging for water — and the American one of selling bottled water, still or sparkling, in restaurants — but charging for good-old-fashioned tap water at a restaurant in New York City, in the United States of America, in this day and age? Where is this young man going to dinner?! Actually, don’t answer that — I’m not sure I want to know. But because Timms addresses his essay to the post-restaurant future, I feel I must do so, too. Reader, take heed: a glass of water from the tap was free and available at the average sit-down restaurant in 2021, and any instance to the contrary was an anomaly. If Timms was speaking exclusively of fine dining, he might have said so.

 — Clara Bujalski

More from Issue 40

Issue 40 Hindsight

If the web was the waking mind of human culture, GPT-3 emerged as its psychic underbelly.

Issue 40 Hindsight
The Groups
Issue 40 Hindsight

The New Deal order was simply too fragile for its winners to prioritize solidarity with less-protected workers.

Issue 40 Hindsight

Why not write, in other words, for Twitter?

Issue 40 Hindsight

Black struggle struck the match.

Issue 40 Hindsight

Before going there myself, I had heard this phrase, open-air prison, and figured it was not literally a prison.

Issue 40 Hindsight
Compensation
Issue 40 Hindsight
Primary Sources
Issue 40 Hindsight
Horse Soup
Issue 40 Hindsight
Pictures at a Restoration

More by this Author

October 20, 2014
N1BReading, Part 2
Issue 28 Half-Life
Party Foul
Issue 15 Amnesty

Even as newsstand sales and ad revenues declined, MacArthur refused to consider any online strategies.

Issue 18 Good News

Hundreds of NSA staff left work one night as salaried employees and returned the next day as contractors.

January 9, 2007

These days, when snow seems quaint, I think of places whose tourism bureaus boast of “eternal spring.”

Issue 8 Recessional

The first intellectual consequence of the economic crisis was to undermine neoliberalism as the age’s default ideology.